Apr 28, 2026

From Life Itself

Turkey, Istanbul, and a Neighborhood in the Age of Erdoğan

Suzy Hansen

One neighborhood in Istanbul: a window on a city, country, region, and world in a state of upheaval.

Karagumruk, an Istanbul neighborhood once dominated by Ottoman-era homes, is now known for petty thieves, cheap apartment blocks, and a massive influx of Syrian refugees. It’s here that Suzy Hansen went looking for the truth behind the headlines of the Turkish president Erdoğan’s authoritarian turn, a catastrophic regional war, and an accelerating geopolitical crisis. She asks: Was Turkey a harbinger of what would soon arise in other countries, the resurgence of authoritarianism? Or do the lives of this neighborhood, and the transformations of Erdoğan’s Turkey, reveal a more complex story?